SAILBOAT EVALUATION CHECKLIST (© 1993 Janet L. and Roy Lachman)
BOAT:
MFG, LOA, YEAR:
ASKING PRICE:
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1 KEELS AND BALLAST
1.1 Keel shape:
1.2 Ballast material:
Internal hull ballast is generally undesirable. External bolted on keels may be lead or steel; lead is better.
Encapsulated ballast keels are an integral part of the hull, but require concrete, resin or bitumen bedding
for ballast like lead shot or scrap.
1.3 Keel bolts and access:
External bolted-on keels require good bolting; the keel bolt nuts should be snugged down and double-nutted over large washers or backing plates. There should be 1 square inch of sectional area (of the bolt) for each 1,500 pounds of external ballast. The keel may be lead or steel; lead is better.
1.4 General condition of keel:
2 HULL
2.1 Fairness:
Fiberglass mat or core should not show through gelcoat; no bulges, hollows or bulkheads should not be visible as "hard spots" on outside of hull.
2.2 Finish:
Should be unblemished.
2.3 Fiberglass
2.3.1 Gelcoat.
There should be no print-through, crazing, cracks.
2.3.2 Delamination, voids, core rot, moisture:
Tap along hull with hammer. Delamination will produce a double-clicking sound; core-rot will sound "flat"
or dull compared to other areas.
2.3.3 Blisters:
Not as much of a problem as people seem to think. It will cost somewhere around $600 - $800 to fix them, and all boats will get them sooner or later. "Barrier coats" are not economic. They work, but not for more than a few years, and it is cheaper to remove the blisters every time you get a bottom job.
2.3.4 Barrier coat:
Nice if it's there, but not really necessary.
2.4 Insulation:
2.5 Rub rail:
Should be capped with stainless, rubber or bronze. Plastic rub rails are not much help and don't last.
2.6 Through-hull fittings not evaluated elsewhere -- type, condition, valves:
The fewer through-hull fittings there are, the better. They should be flush with the hull. Any that are below the waterline at anchor or on a hard tack should have a seacock or ball valve. These are preferable to gate valves (the kind that look like a water faucet). Hoses should be double-clamped. Look for signs of corrosion, such as pitting. The fitting should withstand a light tap from a ball-peen hammer.
2.7 Zincs (bonding system):
Protects aluminum from galvanic corrosion. Each through-hull should be included in the system.
3 DECKS
3.1 Hull deck joint:
Should be overlapping flange, sealed, through-bolted every 5 to 9 inches, preferably with 3/8" bolts, and taped with fiberglass.
3.2 Fiberglass
3.2.1 Stiffness:
Deck should not be springy. Inspect for voids and delamination. Delamination is likeliest on the forward 2/3 of the vessel. Tap with hammer, and listen for double clicks. Check especially at the foredeck, around the forward hatch, and at the chainplates.
3.2.2 Gel coat:
Look for crazing in highly stressed areas such as mast step, cleats, traveler and chainplates.
3.2.3 Nonskid:
Should provide secure footing and be located everywhere an individual might walk or crawl.
3.2.4 Leaks:
Through-deck fittings should be sealed and have backing plates.
3.3 Metal (trim & fittings)
3.3.1 Corrosion:
3.3.2 Welds:
3.3.3 Finishes:
3.4 Foredeck comments:
Should be large enough to work on, with few items to stub toes or catch sheets.
3.5 Sidedeck comments:
Should permit the easy for-and-aft movement of crew and gear such as sailbags.
3.6 Toe rail or bulwarks:
There should be one or the other. Toe rails should be deep and through-bolted.
3.7 Lifelines, stanchions & pulpits:
Should be double, with top line well above knee height. Should have a gate. Stanchions should be at
least 1" diameter. Stanchions and pulpits should be fastened to heavy, through-bolted bases with backing
plates. Eyes on stanchions are good, and are necessary on bow pulpits. Set screws permit easy removal of
stanchion posts.
3.8 Handholds
Should be plentiful and accessible from cockpit to foredeck. Should be through-bolted.
3.9 Hatches and ports
Hatches should be well scuppered with gaskets. Foredeck hatches should accommodate sailbags. Ports
and windows should be heavily framed and sealed. Large window areas should be fitted with emergency
storm shutters. Skylights are a nuisance.
4 COCKPIT
4.1 Comfort and size:
Should be large enough for crew, but narrow enough so you can prop your feet on opposite side. Traveler
and mainsheet should not be obstacles to normal movement.
4.2 Drainage
Two 2-inch diameter drains are minimum for small cockpit. (Cutaway transoms, transom doors can also
drain cockpit.) Screens, strainers and sharp bends in outlet hoses can reduce flow.
4.3 Companionway:
Should have high sill and bridgedeck as high as the cockpit seats.
4.4 Sill or bridgedeck:
4.5 Hatchboards:
Essential; breaking wave can push doors inward.
4.6 Seahood:
Should be sealed forward and at sides.
4.7 Lockers
Should be well sealed, scuppered, and able to be securely fastened or locked. Excellent if sealed off from
rest of interior to prevent flooding the entire boat if a hatch is lost in a storm.
4.8 Fasteners/hasps:
4.9 Scuppers & drains:
4.9.1 Size:
4.10 Coaming:
There should be a substantial coaming/splash rail to keep out boarding seas. It should be comfortable as a
seat, angled for good back support.
4.11 Dodger:
Definitely needed. Enclosed cockpit is even better.
4.12 Bimini:
Absolutely essential.
5 STEERING
5.1 Visibility forward:
5.2 Visibility of compass & instruments:
5.3 Access to engine controls:
5.4 Using the running rigging from steering station:
5.5 Type of steering system:
A hydraulic system is powerful, relatively simple, and good for center cockpit boats, because linkage between wheel and rudder shaft is tortuous, but it eliminates the "feel" from the helm. Magnetic materials that would affect the compass shouldn't be used.
5.6 Play in system:
One pound of pressure on the wheel should initiate movement through the rudder's full range.
5.7 Binding in system:
Could indicate bad shaft bearing, bent rudder shaft, misaligned shaft tube, a poorly shaped rudder, or keel
that just doesn't want to turn.
5.8 Stops:
5.9 Ease of maintenance:
5.10 Wheel
5.10.1 Finish:
5.10.2 Rudder head:
5.11 Emergency tiller:
5.12 Cutlass bearing, shaft bearing, rudder tube, rudder bearings, pintles and gudgeons:
5.13 Rudder type, size & location
5.14 Windvane:
5.15 Autopilot:
6 STANDING RIGGING
6.1 Type of sailplan:
Sloop, cutter, ketch, yawl or schooner. You want a sloop or cutter.
6.2 Rig complexity, number of stays:
6.2.1 Diameter of stays:
6.2.2 Size of mast:
6.2.3 Location of chainplates:
6.3 Keel stepped mast?
Should be aligned and properly wedged at the partners (where it passes through the deck). Should be
stepped on reinforced floor, not directly on keel.
6.3.1 Tie rod:
Should be installed parallel and close to the mast to prevent the coach roof from hinging or raising.
6.3.2 Step:
Should be substantial.
6.3.3 Heel bolted:
Should be out of the bilge water and bolted to step.
6.3.4 Partners:
Look for proper wedging and sealing.
6.3.5 Mast boot:
Should be substantial and provide good waterproof seal.
6.4 Deck stepped mast?
Easier to put up and take down. Step fitting on deck should distribute the vertical thrust of the mast. Heel should be bolted through a step or pinned through a tabernacle.
6.4.1 Step or tabernacle:
Should be substantial step; tabernacle is a hinged bracket that acts as a step, and contributes to ease of taking mast down/putting it up.
6.4.2 Compression post:
Should be directly under the step, and solid.
6.4.3 Deck Reinforcement
Should be heavily reinforced with bulkheads and compression bar/post.
6.5 Mast
Should be evaluated for strength, stiffness and windage. Cruisers will want relatively simple rigging: single
or double spreaders for a larger boat. A tapered mast is an advantage.
6.5.1 Mast tune:
6.5.2 Masthead fitting:
6.5.3 Spreaders & struts:
Aluminum spreaders, not wood. Should have airfoil shape, and be correctly aligned and through-bolted to
the mast. Tips should be wired or clamped to prevent movement on the shroud, and then taped and
booted to avoid sail chafe.
6.5.4 Tangs:
Fittings on mast to which shrouds are fastened. Should be through-bolted and correctly aligned with
shrouds.
6.5.5 Drain hole:
Should be located at step. Stick your fingers or a knife blade down and feel around for it.
6.6 Mainsail boom
Should have room for all fittings required for running rigging. Bronze and stainless hardware must be
bedded and/or mounted on plastic or rubber pads to prevent glavanic corrosion of spar.
6.6.1 Cockpit clearance:
You don't want to get "boomed". Also make sure it doesn't damage the bimini.
6.6.2 Gooseneck:
Gooseneck that fastens boom to mast should be a strong universal joint with reefing tack hooks.
6.6.3 Boom gallows:
A boom gallows is a good feature, providing a good place to store the boom, additional handholds,
protection for crew if topping lift breaks, and can help support an awning or dodger.
6.7 Jib & staysail booms:
Generally not a good tradeoff -- add complexity, cost and weight.
6.8 Spar corrosion, cracks, rot, finish
Should be minimal.
6.9 Stays
Wire should be 1 x 19 preformed stainless of adequate diameter for a large safety margin. At 60 percent
of its breaking strength, wire is permanently deformed; working load is only 20 percent of breaking
strength.
6.9.1 Terminals:
All wire should end in a terminal (threaded fitting that screws into the turnbuckle) rated for marine use.
The most common reason for rigging failure is wire failure at or in the lower terminal.
6.9.2 Toggles:
Create a universal joint for movement of wire athwartships and fore-and-aft while maintaining alignment.
Should be on the deck end of all standing-wire rigging and both ends of all sail-carrying stays.
6.9.3 Clevis pins:
Should be no excessive spaces between terminals, toggles, tangs, clevis pins, and chainplates.
6.9.4 Cotter pins:
Should not be missing. They pin the turnbuckles.
6.9.5 Turnbuckles:
Should be oversized and open so threads can be cleaned, lubricated and inspected.
6.9.6 Backstay adjuster:
Vary from hydraulic system to simple turnbuckle; but it should be there.
6.9.7 Running backstays:
6.10 Chainplates:
Should be securely through-bolted and fastened to reinforced structural portions of boat, such as hull and
major bulkheads. Wider chainplate stance provides more support for the mast, and permits simpler
standing rigging elsewhere. However, if too far outboard, the jib cannot be sheeted in as far and boat
can't point as high.
6.10.1 Stemhead:
6.11 Bowsprit
Not generally a desirable feature.
6.11.1 Bobstay:
6.11.2 Dolphin striker:
6.11.3 Sprit condition
Should be no rot or corrosion.
6.11.4 Bowsprit platform:
6.11.5 Anchor position:
6.12 Boomkin:
7 RUNNING RIGGING
7.1 Halyards & leads:
Wire halyards have very little stretch and windage, but can inflict nasty wounds and require an expensive
splice to a rope tail. Low-stretch rope halyards are better, Internal halyards may improve performance
incrementally, but they can be noisy and difficult to inspect and maintain. Check halyard leads for
fairness: no unnecessary friction or chafing. At a minimum turning blocks should be bolted to large
backing plates, should turn easily, have large unworn sheaves and be strong enough for maximum potential
loads.
7.2 Jib & staysail sheet leads:
An inboard track with a block on a sliding car provides close sheeting angles to enhance windward
performance. There should be sheet leads on the rail outside the lifelines -- maybe on a track with a block
on a car, or a perforated aluminum toe rail with attached snatch block. Check the length of the track,
make sure it is through-bolted, is true and unwarped. Blocks must be large enough for maximum loads.
7.3 Lines
Check for size and condition. Double braid is easy to hold onto and stronger that 3-strand, but tends to
knot and tangle. 3/8" is smallest that can be handled under load. Lines should be logically grouped and
labeled or color-coded. There should be cleats for all tails.
7.4 Mainsheet & traveler:
You do want a mainsheet winch, and a traveler.
7.5 Mainsail reefing:
There should be at least 2 reefs.
7.6 Roller furling:
A must for the genoa, and nice for the main.
7.7 Cunningham, outhaul, downhaul, topping lift, vang, preventer:
All desirable features.
7.8 Pole, topping lift, downhaul or foreguy:
A topping lift is essential.
7.9 Winches & handles:
Powerful enough to do their job without a gorilla for a grinder. Best are two-or three speed winches.
Genoa and and mainsheet winches really should be self-tailing. They should be through-bolted with
backing plates or oversize washers, and should be realtively easy to maintain (break down, clean and
grease). See that it is not necessary to completely unbolt them from the boat in order to clean them.
Winches should be mounted to prevent line overrides. Lines should approach the winch at 95 to 120
degrees, with 0 degrees an imaginary line parallel to the winch drum and pointing directly upward.
7.10 Cleats & stoppers:
Winch cleats should be through-bolted, and must be aligned on a 315- to 135 degree axis with the winch at
360 degrees.
8 SAILS
Cruising sails must have a long life span and low probability of failure. They must
accommodate a wide wind range. Cloth will be one or two weights heavier than an
optimum racing sail. Grommets are larger, reinforced and hand worked. Extra chafe
protection is provided at slides and lugs, tack and clew rings. All heavy weather sailes
are triple stitched. Percentages are a percentage of "J", which is the distance from the
mast to the forestay measured on the deck. The sail is measured as a line intersecting
the clew and meeting the luff at a right angle. If only one jib, it should be in the 115 to
130% range, i.e., 1/7 to 1/3 larger than J. A heavy weather, long hoist jib should be in
the 80 to 100 % range. The third sail might be a spinnaker or cruising spinnaker and
then a storm jib and a storm trysail (a loose footed sail set behind the mast).
If the sail inventory is large, take the sails to a sailmaker for evaluation.
8.1 Main:
Can be built with hollow leach and no battens, with a roach and short battens, or with a maximum roach and full battens. Hollow leach and battenless main is often selected for cruising. It reefs well and requires less maintenance, but will suffer in light winds. Short battens and small roach gives more power in light to moderate air. Power can be enhanced by having the sail made with a full cut and a shelf. Full battens reduce flogging and increase ease of stowing on the boom, but are more costly, require more maintenance, and can jam against the mast or the shrouds when raised or lowered off the wind.
8.1.1 Reefing
Slab (jiffy) reefing is most popular. Two deep reefs are usually adequate for coastal sailing; for offshore sailing a third reef and/or a storm trysail are needed. For short-handed cruising boat, all mainsail controls, including the reefing system, should be led to the starboard base of the mast or to the cockpit.
8.1.2 Roller-furling
Main roller-furling has advantages and disadvantages. In the mast requires a special mast, cannot use battens and therefore reduces light wind performance, and can jam. Behind the mast can be retrofitted to existing mast, but put the mast under tremendous compression, make it difficult to get adequate luff tension and develop turbulence in the gap between mast and sail.
8.2 Jibs & genoas:
For light summer winds, a genoa in the 115%-130% range is needed for decent performance. It won't be a hot performer in extremely light winds, but could be used without the main in winds over 25 knots up to about 30 knots.
8.2.1 Roller furling
Roller-furling jibs should be cut fairly flat and with a high clew (these are detrimental for light air sailing, but their convenience may justify it. Roller-reefing is different; the sail and gear are specially constructed to take the stress of reefing and reduce the performance loss that occurs with reefing. Advantages are smaller sail inventory and fewer sail changes; disadvantages are more heeling and less drive as sail is reefed -- just what you don't want in heavy weather -- and heavy construction that reduces light-air performance.
8.3 Staysails:
Should have quick-release.
Can be added after the working sails and a storm jib.8.4 Spinnakers/gennakers:
A cruising spinnaker is smaller than a full spinnaker.
8.5 Storm sails:
The third most important sail should be a heavy-weather sail in the range of 80%-100% Such a sail should be cut flat, triple stitched, and practically bulletproof.
8.6 Other sails:
9 ENGINE
All fittings and lines should be double-hose clamped, leak-free and protected from chafe. Lines should be flexible hose, not tubing. Pulley belts should not be cracked, ragged or worn; check for rubber dust which shows that pulleys are out of alignment. Belts should have about a half inch of deflection. Engine should be painted and look clean and presentable, with little rust. Check for salt deposits, which indicate water leaks, and for fuel and oil leaks.
9.1 Type (manufacturer, cylinders, HP):
9.2 Horsepower to displacement ratio:
One and a half horsepower per thousand pounds is a general good rule of thumb.
9.3 Fuel tank storage:
9.4 Inboard General
9.4.1 Location & general access:
9.4.2 Removal:
9.4.3 Access:
9.4.3.1 Changing belts:
9.4.3.2 Compression release:
9.4.3.3 Engine & heat exchanger zincs:
9.4.3.4 Engine to shaft alignment:
Coupling should be accessible for inspection and alighment. A flexible coupling is preferable on rough-running diesels and long propeller shafts.
9.4.3.5 Exhaust antisiphon valve:
9.4.3.6 Freshwater drain:
9.4.3.7 Freshwater fill:
9.4.3.8 Freshwater pump:
Access needed for removal and replacement of the impeller.
9.4.3.9 Fuel bleed screw:
9.4.3.10 Fuel filters:
9.4.3.11 Fuel pump:
9.4.3.12 Fuel shutoffs:
9.4.3.13 Head bolts, torquing:
9.4.3.14 Injectors:
9.4.3.15 Engine oil dipstick:
9.4.3.16 Engine oil drain:
9.4.3.17 Engine oil fill:
9.4.3.18 Engine oil filter:
9.4.3.19 Transmission oil fill:
9.4.3.20 Transmission oil drain:
9.4.3.21 Transmission oil dipstick:
9.4.3.22 Seawater drain:
9.4.3.23 Seawater pump:
9.4.3.24 Seawater strainer:
9.4.3.25 Starter handle:
9.4.3.26 Stuffing box:
Should be accessible for inspection and to tighten the packing nuts.
9.4.3.27 Adjustment valves:
9.4.4 Belts, condition:
9.4.5 Cooling system type:
9.4.5.1 Grate and/or seawater filter:
There should be a grate on the outside of the hull, to keep debris out of the engine. There should be a see-through strainer before the engine, that is easily viewed.
9.4.5.2 Seacock or ball valve:
At the water intake (on the other side of the grate).
9.4.5.3 Condition of hoses, hose clamps:
Hoses should be double clamped, fair led and in good condition.
9.4.5.4 Freshwater, flush T fitting:
9.4.6 Drip pan:
Should be there under engine.
9.4.7 Engine bed and motor mounts:
Should be sturdy and made of wood, steel or aluminum. Flexible mounts are desirable on diesels to reduce noise and vibration. Push bed to see if it gives but nothing is loose.
9.4.8 Engine compartment insulation:
Should be insulated for heat and noise. Lead foam is the standard.
9.4.9 Engine fire extinguisher system:
9.4.10 Exhaust
Must be absolutely tight from the engine to the overboard discharge. All fittings must be sealed and double-hose clamped. Overboard exhaust hose must be looped high above the waterline through an antisiphon elbow, then attached to a seacock or ball valve where it exhausts through the hull.
9.4.10.1 Condition:
9.4.11 Fuel Tank
Fill plate, fuel tank and engine must be electrically bonded for static electricity and lightning. Tank must be secured for the worst possible movement of the boat. Large tanks must be baffled or divided into smaller tanks. All fittings including return fuel lines and vents should be from the top of the tank. The vent tube should have an inner diameter of 9/16" and must be vented overboard in a high loop to a vent that will not be submerged when sailing.
9.4.11.1 No. of tanks:
9.4.11.2 Material:
9.4.11.3 Construction (baffles, inspection, secure):
9.4.11.4 Sump:
Makes it easier to change oil.
9.4.11.5 Condition:
9.4.11.6 Fittings:
9.4.11.7 Vent:
9.4.11.8 Fuel fill:
Fuel fill pipe should be secured to a waterproof deck plate/cap, and innner diameter should be at least 1¼". Escaping vapors should be vented overboard.
9.4.12 Fuel System
9.4.12.1 Fuel line condition, hose clamps:
9.4.12.2 Fuel cutoffs:
Should be located at engine and at fuel tank.
9.4.12.3 Fuel filters:
9.4.13 Gauges
This is the minimum set.
9.4.13.1 Tach:
9.4.13.2 Amp and volt:
9.4.13.3 Oil pressure gauge & alarm:
9.4.13.4 Cooling temperature & alarm:
9.4.14 Propeller Shaft
There should be some means for locking the shaft so it doesn't free-wheel under sail. Check the zinc condition, it should be partly eaten away between normal haul-outs.
9.4.14.1 Alignment:
9.4.14.2 Stuffing box:
The hose covering the shaft tube and stuffing box should be double-clamped and in good condition.
9.4.14.3 Cutlass bearing:
Shaft on the outside of the stuffing box; should be checked for wear.
9.4.14.4 Hose sealing cutlass to stern tube:
9.4.15 Propeller
9.4.15.1 Type:
9.4.15.2 Location:
9.4.15.3 Condition:
Check for nicks and corrosion.
9.4.15.4 Brake:
9.4.16 Ventilation:
10 ELECTRICAL
A wiring diagram is essential. All wiring should be color coded, protected from chafe, and kept out of the bilge. Connections should be clean and corrosion free. A built-in voltmeter is a desirable feature.
10.1 Bonding of engine, chainplates, keel bolts, propeller shaft, fuel tank, mast, engine, stuffing box, bronze shoe, through-hulls with #8 wire:
Check to see that this is done.
10.2 Lightning ground:
10.3 Panel
10.3.1 Location
Should be high and dry -- under the companionway is not dry.
10.3.2 Separate 12 volt and 110 volt:
Shore power must be completely isolated from the boat's 12-volt system.
10.4 Alternator:
Consider whether draw will be excessive and require lots of battery charging, or a generator if the boat doesn't have one.
10.5 Batteries and Box
Should have 4-position vapor-proof switch. They should be located close to the engine, but insulated from the engine's heat. Battery box should be acid-proof, vented, and tied down for 360 degree rollover. Batteries should be clean and corrosion-free.
10.5.1 Capacity:
10.6 GFCI's:
Ground-fault circuit interrupter. Essential.
10.7 Lights
10.7.1 Interior:
Where possible, use fluorescent lights. Lights should be minimum for purpose. Red night lights are also good. Interior lights should be well-positioned.
10.7.2 Deck lights/spreader lights:
Mast-mounted lights are preferable; they are less vulnerable to damage from sheets and halyards.
10.7.3 Running lights:
Good location is bow and stern pulpits rather than on the deck, they're safer there. Should be well sealed. All sockets and bulbs should be checked for corrosion.
10.7.4 Anchor and/or strobe:
Provide good visibility when navigating around large ships.
11 VENTILATION, WINDOWS, HATCHES
11.1 Condition and scuppering:
11.2 Recommended addition of vents and hatches:
11.3 Storm shutters:
11.4 Interior ventilation:
12 HEAD
12.1 Type:
12.2 Condition:
12.3 Holding tank system:
12.4 Seacocks:
12.5 Antisiphon:
13 WATER SYSTEM
13.1 Tanks
13.1.1 No. of tanks:
13.1.2 Material and capacity:
13.1.3 Construction:
13.1.4 Cleanliness:
13.1.5 Vents:
13.1.6 Fills:
13.2 Pumps:
13.3 Sinks
13.3.1 Depth and location:
13.3.2 Seacocks:
14 REFRIGERATOR/ICEBOX
14.1 Type:
14.2 Size:
14.3 Insulation:
14.4 Lids:
14.5 Drain:
15 STOVES AND HEATERS
15.1 Stoves
15.1.1 Gimbaled, counterweights, lock:
15.1.2 Sea rails, potholders:
15.1.3 Crash bar:
15.1.4 Belt:
15.1.5 Secured:
15.2 Heaters
15.2.1 Crash bars:
15.2.2 Vented:
15.3 Installation
15.3.1 Fuel cutoffs, manual & solenoid, flameout shutdowns:
15.3.2 Insulation & clearance:
15.3.3 Stacks & Charley Noble:
15.3.4 Propane locker:
15.3.5 Fuel tank or bottles:
15.3.6 Pressure gauge:
15.3.7 Fuel lines:
15.3.8 Bilge blower & propane sniffer:
16 AIR CONDITIONER
16.1 Type:
16.2 Built in/add on:
16.3 Location of unit:
16.4 Size of unit:
16.5 BTU's:
16.6 Number & location of vents:
17 INTERIOR
17.1 Companionway ladder:
17.2 Handholds:
17.3 Sole:
17.4 Wet locker:
17.5 Storage:
17.6 Berths:
17.7 Dinette:
17.8 Chart table:
17.9 Fiddles:
17.10 Heavy weather latches, gear tiedowns:
17.11 Access to hull and deck fittings:
17.12 Leaks:
17.13 Bilge:
18 ANCHORING AND DOCKING
18.1 Cleats:
18.2 Chocks:
18.3 Anchor roller:
18.4 Anchor windlass:
18.5 Chain locker/anchor locker:
18.6 Anchors:
18.7 Dock Lines
18.8 Fenders:
19 INSTRUMENTATION
19.1 Compass:
19.2 Depth sounder:
19.3 VHF:
19.4 Knotmeter and log:
19.5 Loran, SatNav, GPS, RDF:
19.6 Other radios:
19.7 Wind:
20 SAFETY GEAR
20.1 Bilge pumps, type, capacity, antisiphon, through-hulls:
20.2 Fire extinguishers:
20.3 Jack lines:
20.4 Lifesling:
20.5 Overboard pole:
20.6 Radar reflector:
21 MISCELLANEOUS GEAR
21.1 Dinghy:
21.2 Bo'sun's chair:
21.3 Spare parts:
22 ITEMS COVERED IN HAUL-OUT INSPECTION
22.1 Hull, topsides
22.1.1 Fairness:
22.1.2Finish, gel coat, crazing, cracks:
22.1.3 Delamination, core condition, rot, caulking, corrosion, welds:
22.1.4 Rub rail:
22.1.5 Vents:
22.2 Hull, bottom
22.2.1 Shape and alignment:
22.2.2 Hull to keel joint:
22.2.3 Blisters, delamination, cracks, rot, worms, caulking, fasteners, corrosion, welds:
22.2.4 Barrier coat:
22.2.5 Centerboard and trunk:
22.2.6 Through-hull fittings:
22.2.7 Zincs:
22.3 Steering
22.3.1 Rudder shape:
22.3.2 Rudder condition:
22.3.3 Rudder shaft, tube, bearings:
22.3.4 Rudder hinges, pintles and gudgeons:
22.4 Propeller
22.4.1 Type:
22.4.2 Condition:
22.4.3 Shaft:
22.4.4 Cutlass bearing:
22.5 Rigging best observed during haul-out:
22.5.1 Bobstay:
22.5.2 Bowsprit:
22.5.3 External chainplates: